Episode

9

September 15, 2019

Into the heart of old Arcadiana

Keep going east ya’ll. Everyone we speak to tells us to get on route 190 and travel through the woodland to Kinder, Eunice and old Opelousas.

The trail

Bones and old roads

on Trail notes

Our hearts were heavy leaving DeQuincy that morning. We were torn with staying for the Saturday game and BBQ at Rods, but knew we had to push on east. There was just too much ground to cover between here and New Orleans (NOLA).

As advised we stuck to the 190, with its wide shoulder and shade. The mercury was already rising and we welcomed what shade we could find.

This part of the road is a long arch through woodland for 40miles to the next major town of Kinder, with only one small outpost along the way. As always Horse and I break the distance down into shorter units of travel, take regular stops and just grind out the distance in silence. Saving what conversation we do have for moments on the trail.

It’s strange to say, but at times we ride together alone. Lost in our own thoughts remembering past nights and people, family and home. Taking in this slow pace of travel and seeing things others only see fleetingly. That is the way of the trail.

We made Kinder in good time, passing old silos and tumble downs of what looked like another old Louisiana town, now divided by the never ending rumble of an interstate. Beautiful stately homes on one side and convenience stores and trailor parks the other.

We pushed on, we wanted to make Eunice and another 100km in the saddle. The wind rose as we crossed into Jefferson Davis Parish. Although it is Cajun country it was named after the first and only President of the South. Memories of everything I’ve ever read about civil war came back and I wondered what histories cling like sinew to the bones of this old road.

We reached Eunice at five. Today was just a grinder, but the trail was pretty. More woodlands and open pastures, scattered with the remnants of what once was, and the trailor parks of the present.

Tomorrow is old Opelousas.

“I been warped by the rain, driven by the snow, I’m drunk and dirty don’t ya know, and I’m still, willin’”

Thanks for the lyrics Lowell George

The story

Celcius

on trail

climbing

Linda Ronstadt - Willin’

The fabled and curious

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